IMPORTANT NOTE
The common ISO/English thread standard found on most bikes uses a left-hand thread on the drive side of the bike. The drive side is also called "chainring side", and is the right side as seen when you are sitting on your the saddle. A left-hand thread on the drive side is done so the cup tends to be self tightening. This may appear counter-intuative, but because the ball bearings are rotating, the load direction of pedaling is reversed. The taps of the Park BTS-1 and the threaded bushings of the Park BFS-1 are marked for thread direction with LH, for left-hand, and RH for right-hand. These marking DO NOT refer to side of bike. Some bottom brackets are marked with LH and RH that do refer to side of bike. Always check slope of thread if in doubt.

The photo below shows left and right hand thread, English bottom bracket taps. Note the red arrow pointing to the first section of each tap. A right-hand threaded tap begins with the starting or first thread on the right. A left-hand threaded tap begins with the starting thread on the left.

Inspect the starting thread of each tap to confirm thread direction.

1. Identify the thread type used for your bottom bracket shell. Measure the bottom bracket cups with a thread gauge and compare them to the chart above. Often, the thread size will be stamped directly on the cup also.
2. Check the taps carefully on your Part BTS-1 bottom bracket tap set. If they are ISO/English thread, identify the left-handed thread for the drive side (right side) of your bike.
3. Install the taps simultaneously into your bottom bracket shell, with the correct tap on each side. This ensures each tap is aligned as it connects with the first internal thread.
   

   
   Guide the taps gently and simultaneously into shell.
   
   

4. Stop and apply generous amounts of Kingsbridge Cutting Oil.
5. Turn the first tap in SLOWLY ¼ turn, then back slightly, then advance again ¼ turn. This breaks the chip created by the cutting teeth. Add more cutting fluid with each full turn.Keep turning until one tap is completely recessed in your bottom bracket shell.
6. Repeating the process above, turn the other tap until it too is recessed in your bottom bracket shell.
   

   
   The taps must be recessed in your shell if you want to face the edges.
   
   

7. To face your bottom bracket shell, remove one tap handle by pulling outward on the handle. Install the facing cutter on the tap handle.
8. Apply a liberal dose of cutting fluid to face of the cutter. Bring the cutter gently into contact with the bottom bracket shell.
9. Hold the tool by the middle of the handle, and turn CLOCKWISE while applying pressure towards the shell. DO NOT rotate the facer counter-clockwise which will dull the facer teeth.
   

   

10. Pull back on the handle after 3-5 turns and check your progress.
    

    
    Continue checking your progress every 3 to 5 turns.
    
    

11. When the face of your bottom bracket shell shows a complete circle of freshly cut metal the facing process is complete.
    

    
    Note the shell's face near the red arrow. Cutting the full width of the shell is not necessary. The black paint here represents a low area that is of no consequence to your lock ring or bearing cup.
    
    

12. After the cut is complete, turn the facer gently clockwise to remove any metal burrs.
13. Remove the other tap handle, install the facing cutter and repeat the process above.
14. When you are done facing, remove the facer from the tap handle and reinstall the tap handles. Gently remove both taps. Use care to unthread the taps simultaneously to prevent thread damage.
15. Clean the taps with a soft brush and apply a thin coat of cutting oil to protect them from rust. Gently clean the inside of your bottom bracket shell with a brush and an old cloth rag or paper towel. Throw the rag or paper towel in the trash when you are done. Do NOT use compressed air or your fingers to clean metal shavings.

The image below shows the left-hand thread and right-hand threaded bushings of the Park BFS-1. Notice how the threads slope at an angle. The left-hand threaded bushing slopes upward to the left. The right-hand threaded bushing slopes upward to the right.
Always inspect a thread's slope to determine the thread's direciton.

1. Check the thread's direction of your threaded bushings.
2. NOTE: Before installing the threaded bushings, GREASE or use an antiseize both on the bushings and inside your frame shell.
   

   

3. If there is a left-hand threaded guide, install it into the drive side (right side) of your bike. Use the handle of the Park BFS-1 to thread the bushings in until both are recessed into frame.
4. Note: If the threaded bushings are difficult to install, remove and tap your shell with the Park BTS-1. The threaded bushings must be recessed into your bottom bracket shell.
   
5. Place the handle with the facer through your bottom bracket shell. On other side, install the washer, spring, keyed spacer, and tension adjusting nut.
   

   

6. Turn the handle gently clockwise to begin cutting. Increase the pressure as necessary by tightening the tension adjusting nut.
7. After making 3 to 5 complete rotations, loosen the adjusting nut and draw the facing cutter away from the shell face to inspect your progress.
8. After the cut is complete, loosen the adjusting nut and turn the facer gently clockwise to remove any metal burrs.
9. Remove the facing tool, switch it to the other side of your frame and repeat the process above.
10. Remove the adjusting nut and pull the handle from your bottom bracket shell. Remove the facer head. Use the handle to thread out the bushings from your bottom bracket shell.
11. Clean the facer with a soft brush and apply a thin coat of cutting oil to protect it from rust. Gently clean your bottom bracket shell with a brush and an old cloth rag or paper towel. Throw the rag or paper towel in the trash when you are done. Do NOT use compressed air or your fingers to clean metal shavings.